R-Geo Deluxe Chassis Jig - Tips & Tricks


The following tups were excerpted from the Slotblog forum for reference only.

The first picture I think everyone is familiar with this usage. For 3/32 axle construction about everyone slides a piece of brass over the stainless pins to bush for correct axle size. Without the bushings, the span is for 1/8" axles.

As you can see these holes run the full length of the jig, making an almost infinite wheelbase possible. If you jump from the outside row to the next pair of holes on the inside row, you will have moved your wheelbase 1/16". If you jump to the next holes in the present row, you move wheelbase 1/8". But did you know you can jump in 1/32" increments? In this next picture, you will notice, I removed one of the bushings but added a second bushing to the other pin. This make your wheelbase jump just 1/32" , either way to boot! This is one trick many are not aware of.

If any of you have watched the Steube building video, you will find some outstanding building tips. This is one of those taught to me from the video. The center T-slot makes this possible, easily. This is a spring clamp made from a piece of banding iron. Here is a sample of using the Steube clamp. The nice thing is this stuff is free to be found easily and you can get different widths and lengths. Be careful drilling thin material, such as this, because it grabs and can open you up like a can opener, in a flash. Then round off the corners and deburr the hole.

This next shot is a motor bracket positioner I made from a piece of aluminum, but you could make this from wood or lexan. Since the jig has the center T-slot in the middle and is machined to have equal side to side measurement, the motor bracket holder is one way to make repeats with no fuss at all. You just check edge to fixture with your calipers and then snug the screw down when its perfectly centered on your jig. This just one I had laying around on my bench, the one I use is full length of the motor bracket, but this half one was made for a special purpose. Next picture shows motor box snugly fit to the aluminum piece and it does not move around. Very solid, if you make it fir the inside measurement tight.

Just for demonstartion purposes, the first photo is to show you how to take advantage the jig gives you, with the wheelbase adjustment holes running the entire length of the jig, they are not only there for building 32nd scale and 43rd scale chassis but you have 1/16" changes for any and all of the needs you have to putting in cross wire and hinge tubes and keep them perfectly perpendicular to your main rails. The adjustment on this feature is once again, almost infinite on positioning. And if you want to rebuild or check some prebuilt chassis in need of repairs. You have the latitude to find positive stops.

These little gadgets are an optional item that slide over two of the pins along the edge. They can also be moved around anywhere you prefer. ( rememebr the pins change in 1/16" moves) They make it possible to have the same exact pin tube location on any build you create. You are also not limited on pin tube height, in any way. Just drop 1/8" axle shims on the pins and then install the pinners and make them the perfect height you want. Some like to use the Parma or JK wire clips on their builds and with having a dozen choices on each pinner, about any mount spread can be met and repeated. Many will use a full width piece of 1/16" tube side to side, but if you are using precut hinge tubes, you can just use the pin tubes and a piece of .031 wire to span left and right and keep them straight and aligned.

These could also be used to locate your hinge wires perfectly side to side.